The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.
This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city town centre.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments across the city. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre area and more than 3,000 vines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from construction by creating permanent, productive agricultural units inside cities," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on